Dominated by trompe-l’œil, illusionary graphics could be made out from the vast space as something that flirts with and questions gender as a concept. It’s something Gaultier has been doing for years, working with body prints and anatomical graphics to redefine the wearer’s form, and something Martens was keen to explore: “We took one of his most iconic prints and we interpreted it in a Y/Project way. It’s very layered — you have men’s prints and women’s prints and they go on top of each other,” Martens explained to Vogue.
Arguably Martens’ greatest collection for Y/Project since his appointment as Creative Director in 2013, the FW22 presentation saw heatmap-esque graphics offering a voyeuristic peek into what lies beneath; however, by using trompe-l’œil the graphics subvert expectations as they appear on everyone. As such, a muscled ab-packed top can be seen underneath a suit that’s covered in the same purple and green-toned illusionary effect, while a Y2K miniskirt is adorned with a phallus graphic.
Elsewhere, Y/Project’s usual array of denim is presented in full force. Jackets are oversized and drape from the shoulders, meeting pleated skirts halfway for a full ensemble, while other double-denim looks are again covered in trompe-l’œil before being twisted and rearranged in the brand’s typical manner.
Take a look at the Y/Project FW22 collection in the gallery above, and stay tuned for Martens’ takeover at Jean Paul Gaultier’s Haute Couture presentation next week.
In case you missed it, check out Acne Studios’ FW22 offering.