PARIS — The return to a full-fledged, in-person and packed Paris Fashion Week calendar left buyers enthused with the energy of the city (despite the traffic) and the newfound creativity of designers.
The continued strength of Y2K was notable, while denim remained key with low-rise cuts and coordinating tops and bottoms having a major moment. Slinky column dresses and lingerie-inspired pieces such as those at Saint Laurent and Victoria Beckham were cited as major silhouettes this season, though tailoring and understated elegance made its mark in collections from The Row and Stella McCartney.
“We were witness to a dressed-up, elevated, chic and sophisticated aesthetic that dominated the collections. There was an overall feeling of positivity and optimism throughout the week,” said Simon Longland, head of menswear and womenswear at Harrods.
An all-black palette for summer stood out, with pops of brights and neon as colors still on trend, while embellishment for day, including the resurgence of sequins, added an air of celebratory fun. The pendulum swung from heavy leather to sheer fabrics, with many looks revealing acres of skin.
Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe collection was singled out for his creative use of a floral theme and playful twist on proportion — all while still being wearable. “They are always the perfect blend of conceptual meets commerce,” said Lily Page, market director at Net-a-porter. His supersized sweatshirts, shrunken bombers and balloon shoes were cited as must-haves.
Dries Van Noten also registered for its use of sculptural volume, colorblocking and unexpected floral mixes. Other standouts were Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent collection, with its column dresses and oversize coats, while Chitose Abe’s Sacai was well-received for its pleating detail and bombers.
Ludovic de Saint Sernin stood out among emerging talent with his latest gender-fluid collection, and Kevin Germanier also caught buyers’ attention despite Ye, the rapper formerly known as Kanye West, staging a surprise show in the same time slot that hogged headlines with negative buzz.
One of the most mentioned collections of the week was Demna’s Balenciaga for everything from its unique invitation to its muddy pit set. But by far Coperni caused the greatest stir with Bella Hadid’s spray-on dress, an instantly iconic moment that generated $26.3 million in media impact value. Nearly every buyer mentioned it as their best show format of the week, but it led to a bit of soul-searching for some who questioned how the quest for viral moments impacts the industry.
“Overall, the impression was that designers were more concerned with the communication and digital aspect of their shows, while creativity was in some cases sidelined,” said Frederica Montelli, head of fashion at Italy’s Rinascente.
While influencers remain a force, the power of classic celebrity saw a resurgence this season, with the presence of packed front rows and big star turns such as Cher closing the Balmain show.
“From star-studded catwalks to front rows more so than usual, Paris was filled with celebrity-driven shows,” said Elizabeth and Dominick Lepore, owners of Jimmy’s NYC. “Truly the biggest impression that went viral almost instantaneously — if not live — was Bella Hadid having a dress be spray painted onto her body. Remarkable to watch and has us questioning where does fashion go from here?”
Here, buyers’ views on the Paris collections.
Beth Buccini, founder and owner, Kirna Zabête
Favorite collection(s): Sacai, Saint Laurent, Victoria Beckham, Dries Van Noten, Loewe and Valentino.
Best show format: It was super exciting to have both Victoria Beckham and Zimmermann show for the first time in Paris. Victoria Beckham’s show at an old military hospital with “Madame Butterfly” music paired with techno was beautiful. Zimmermann’s location amongst a garden built at the Petit Palais full of noises of chirping birds was magical. Mostly I was proud of these amazing women who were both able to fulfill lifetime dreams this season. I always love a presentation and Johanna Ortiz’s Latin spirit in Paris was refreshing, joyful and fun.
Top trends: Pleating, fringe, deconstructed tailoring, strong shirting, jersey, fashion-y denim, Y2K, low-rise pants. Sheer fabrics, cutouts and feathers continue. Lavender and pale yellow are everywhere.
Must-have item(s): A Loewe anthurium dress, a Sacai trench, a Saint Laurent jersey dress and Miu Miu thong sandals.
Budgets up or down: Budgets are up, as business is strong and we will have two new doors on Madison Avenue and in Nashville, Tennessee, opening for this season.
Impressions of the week: It has felt like a pivotal point for many upcoming brands like Coperni. For pop culture, the celeb overload on the runway with Kanye in Balenciaga and Cher in Balmain gives Paris and the industry some great buzz. The shows in general were full of the most number of exits I’ve ever seen. We have a big call out for event dressing, so we’re looking for that. The strong tailoring we’ve seen looks really fresh, and I think it will perform well.
Brigitte Chartrand, vice president of womenswear buying, Ssense
Favorite collections: Comme des Garçons, The Row, Rick Owens, Dries Van Noten and Junya Watanabe.
Top trends: Leather, tailoring, denim and bridal.
Must-have item: The Row’s cape blazer with tied sleeves; The Row’s canvas and suede low-top sneaker and the integrated mesh stocking flats; Rick Owens ivory bomber; Dries Van Noten floral denim.
New talent: Yang Li at Shang Xia.
Jessica Crawley, divisional merchandise manager, Ounass (Al Tayer Group)
Favorite collection(s): Valentino, Saint Laurent, Zimmermann, Mônot, Coperni and Courrèges.
Top trends: Oversize and slouchy tailoring, lots of denim, cargo pants, high slits, asymmetric hemlines, and continuing from last season, sheer fabrics and cutouts.
Must-have item(s): Anything and everything denim. Denim was all over the runways with Stella McCartney, Courrèges, Alessandra Rich and A.W.A.K.E. Mode doing it best. And for eveningwear, something sheer. We loved all the sheer gowns this season, which we saw from Valentino, Saint Laurent, Monot and Alessandra Rich.
Impressions of the week: From the fashion shows to the showrooms, it was nothing but good vibes.
Victoria Dartigues, merchandising director fashion & accessories, La Samaritaine
Favorite collection(s): Victoria Beckham, Dries Van Noten, Valentino, Loewe, Sacai and Isabel Marant.
Top trends: Sheer silhouettes, many superpositions but always, the skin is visible. Empowered women but super sensual: many pastel shades, bare shoulders, open-back tailored jackets, sheer pants. Elegant but sexy.
Must-have item(s): Sheer pant or lace legging from Victoria Beckham combined with her silky fluid dress. Cargo pant from Isabel Marant mixed with crochet swimwear. Extravagant balloon shoes from Loewe.
New talent: Ester Manas, Botter and Ludovic de Saint Sernin.
Impressions of the week: It has been a very dynamic week in Paris with a schedule filled with new names and young designers who deserve their presence on the calendar. Sensuality and a wedding atmosphere dominated the mood: almost always a white look for the finale of the shows, lingerie and sheer on repeat. It’s also the end of virtual showrooms and presentations.
Jennifer Cuvillier, fashion director, Le Bon Marché
Favorite collection(s): Dior, Stella McCartney, Dries Van Noten, Chloé, Sacai, Zimmermann, Loewe and Rick Owens.
Best show format: Immersive locations, indoor or outdoor. There were many more outdoor shows in Paris this time, with beautiful locations linked to the collection, like the Petit Palais for Zimmermann, the Opéra Garnier for Thom Browne, as well as an amazing decor for Dior.
Top trends: All-black silhouettes; very bright monochrome, and summer vibrant and fresh prints; sequins; summer leather looks; denim and feminine dresses.
Impressions of the week: It was very dynamic and creative with beautiful shows, presentations and showroom presentations. It was a strong PFW.
Must-have items: We are buying for all of our womenswear categories — from contemporary to designer, evening, beachwear and resort, as well as all the accessories. It is an important moment.
Laura Darmon, buyer director and business development, ENG
Favorite collections: Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, Didu and Ludovic de Saint Sernin.
Top trends: Oversize shoulders, low-waist pants, long skirts, visible underwear and big belts.
Must-have item(s): Courrèges biker leather jacket attachable on the waist; punk bear Balenciaga bag; Ludovic de Saint Sernin miniskirt.
Budgets up or down: Up. ENG will be expanding [with a] few stores in China this year.
New talent: Didu, who showcased her new collection in a hybrid presentation format including a runway moment and a live artist performance. The brand is relocating to Paris and her collection “I Can’t Hide My Anger” is a strong statement displaying smart representation through a wide spectrum of women of all races and ages.
Rickie De Sole, women’s designer fashion and editorial director, Nordstrom
Favorite collection(s): Chanel, Sacai, Miu Miu, Dries Van Noten and Loewe.
Best show format: Ibrahim Kamara’s debut collection was set against a backdrop of infinite blue that boldly registered the house color while dancers choreographed by Nicolas Huchard flowed through the space, signifying a new chapter at Off-White.
Top trends: This is the season of the pant. You could find styles with pleats and generous width, streamlined and slinging lower on the waist, flare bottoms, and cargo pants aplenty — they were omnipresent in every city with a bounty of pockets. Embellishment for day at Chanel, Valentino, Sacai, Johanna Ortiz and Stella McCartney. Sequins, beading and intricate needlework considered traditionally applicable for evening felt fresh and exciting for daywear. We were delighted by the sheer layers and sculptural elements that were often a companion to embellishment. All the texture on the runways is something we will be leaning into.
Must-have item(s): If there was ever a place I’d be surprised to see the resurgence of ballet flats, it was the mud pit at the Balenciaga show. But it worked and added even more mortar to the shoe style’s place in the current and upcoming spring season for its simplicity.
New talent: LuChen is one to watch with strong tailoring and an impeccable attention to detail.
Impressions of the week: We welcomed the overall ease and thoughtful sensibility of the spring collections, whether it was Chanel’s glamorous twists on silk chiffon and houndstooth tweeds, or all the extra handy cargo pockets and unexpected shirting and separates seen at Sacai and Miu Miu. Dries Van Noten’s brilliant floral pattern clash was a highlight, ushering in an optimistic mood for spring. Jonathan Anderson delivered a strong collection at Loewe full of must-have items including shearling bombers, a perky fit-and-flare polo collared minidress and quirky statement shoes.
Linda Fargo, senior vice president and director of women’s fashion, Bergdorf Goodman
Favorite collection(s): Dries Van Noten, Chanel, Loewe, Schiaparelli, Junya Watanabe, Valentino, Saint Laurent, Dior, Rick Owens and Issey Miyake. The good news was that there were too many standout collections to be able to name a favorite. Numerous collections were great for very different reasons.
Best show invitation: Balenciaga’s old receipt- and franc-filled lost-and-found wallet.
Best show format: Among standout venues and experiences, praise to the dancers at Dior, Off-White and Issey Miyake, who brought home the focus on the human body as a starting point of beauty and identity. Hands-down, though, the venue of the fashion season was the Mud World at Balenciaga. Full praise to Demna for taking on tough issues, and finding a visually poetic and arresting way to discuss digging for the truth, back-to-the-earth urges and the cry to be free of boxes, labels and limiting descriptives.
Top trends: Body-pride inspired dressing, outward undergarments, transparent layers, redefined and liberated tailoring, innovative volumes, plays on scale, un-constructions in all categories, mixed metaphor dressing, beautility, asymmetrical styles, novelty footwear.
Must-have item(s): Besides all body-confidence expressions, lingerie-inspired layering pieces, the slipdress, bra and corset elements, long, clinging sheath dresses, exaggerated cargo details and pants, foldover bags. The most unforgettable shoe? Loewe’s Minnie Mouse.
New talent: We loved the disruptive defiant energy at Vaquera. We plan to add numerous new brands from our busy but productive time in Paris.
Impressions of the week: Layered onto superlative creativity, messages of identity and the urge to redefine or un-define ourselves and what fashion can be, played out on the runways alongside cultural messaging. Clothing norms are being deconstructed and are re-presenting in exciting new forms.
April Hennig, senior vice president and chief merchandising officer, Moda Operandi
Favorite collection(s): Saint Laurent, The Row, Chloé, Dries Van Noten and Victoria Beckham.
New talent: The new guard of “Parisian cool” including Courrèges, Ludovic de Saint Sernin and Coperni, injected a youthful and rebellious spirit steeped in cult appeal.
Best show format: Balenciaga’s post-apocalyptic show was an extension of last season: the ice had turned to mud for spring, with models pacing down the wet, soiled runway to highly dramatic effect. Courrèges staged a beachy-cool setting, with an hourglass-like stream of sand pouring down from the ceiling at an accelerating pace as models strolled barefoot with shoes in hand, as if walking home in the early hours after a night of revelry.
Top trends: We love the idea of “deconstructed grandeur,” where sheer layers (ubiquitous across the collections) reveal corsetry and bustier construction in ways that feel distinctly modern. Another trend we are calling “romantic utility” spotlights cargo pockets, reworked denim and jumpsuits of various iterations, reborn with imagination and often feminine whimsy.
Must-have item: An effortless approach to evening was epitomized by what we are calling the “ESD” — the easy slinky dress — characterized by draped jersey, cowl necklines and puddled trains. We are also seeing key item skirts especially in extremes of varying length, from the long yellow train at Valentino to micro mini cargo skirts at Miu Miu. These hemlines are a rebellion of sorts, playing into the power of revealing or concealing. Moto jackets offer a “Mad Max” appeal.
Impressions of the week: The Dries Van Noten show delivered endless joy with overwhelmingly upbeat prints and energy. Stella McCartney’s triumphant messaging, “Change the History,” was fueled by the collection’s vibrant and happy colors. In strong opposition were Balenciaga and Miu Miu, who presented a more dystopian mood.
Tiffany Hsu, vice president womenswear fashion buying, Mytheresa
Favorite collections: Loewe, Saint Laurent and Balenciaga.
Best show format: Balenciaga’s post-apocalyptic setting was beyond impressive. Saint Laurent’s dreamlike venue oozed Parisian elegance.
Top trends: We saw a lot of crop tops, cargo pants and rave influences as a strong continuation of the Y2K look. Aside from that there was also beautiful surrealistic, over-the-top craft on display.
Must-have item(s): The Row‘s sock boot is definitely on my list as well as Balenciaga‘s arm bag and devil sunglasses and the Saint Laurent maxi coat.
New talent: I really liked Chet Lo’s clingy knit looks with curved cutouts. Rui and Ponte are other names that I will keep an eye on.
Jodi Kahn, vice president of luxury fashion, Neiman Marcus
Favorite collection(s): Dries Van Noten, Loewe, Schiaparelli and Stella McCartney.
Top trends: We saw quite a few collections with an element of craftsmanship. Valentino offered many fully embellished looks including beaded tights, footwear and accessories. Dries Van Noten offered embellished details on varying fabrications, adding another dimension to the collection. Another surprising theme throughout Paris was the amount of outerwear we saw on the runway. From Saint Laurent models draped in long leather dusters and outerwear, to leather at Akris and Loewe. A bit of exposed skin, in a sophisticated, feminine way continues to be a trend and a continuation from this fashion month, as well as what we are currently selling. We saw these details for both day and night, in the form of open backs, bare midriffs and bralettes worn as underpinnings. Women are celebrating their bodies more than ever.
Best show format: Brands went after an experience this season wanting to engage with the attendees more than just sending models down the runway. Many brands included a “wow” moment to create buzz and excitement around their shows. It is clear the brands are trying to make a lasting impression on both the attendees and the fans watching from afar.
Laura Larbalestier, fashion director, Harvey Nichols
Favorite collection(s): Dries Van Noten and Loewe.
Best show format: Issey Miyake in total again with a very pure and sweet tribute.
Top trends: Alternative denim, oversize bomber jackets and XL coats and sheer layering.
Must-have item(s): Saint Laurent’s extra-long coat, Dries Van Noten wide-legged trousers.
Budgets up or down: Up, where we believe in the product.
New talent: Meryll Rogge, Paula Canova del Vas and Florentina Leitner.
Impressions of the week: One of the highlights of the week was how brands presented themselves in different ways emphasizing their brand message.
Elizabeth and Dominick Lepore, owners, Jimmy’s, New York
Favorite collection(s): Alexandre Vauthier, Coperni, Louis Vuitton and Victoria Beckham.
Top trends: Freshness with colors, modernism with style and a glamorous departure from loungewear. Reimagining the ’80s, ’90s and Y2K era, what’s old is new again. If you’ve been in business as long as we have — nearly 75 years — everything we’re seeing, we’ve sold before and are excited to showcase it to the new generation of Jimmy’s customers.
Must-have item(s): Fashionistas will wear or carry something fringe. If you’re not wearing it, you’re carrying it. Additionally, the bucket bag has reappeared on the runways for all of the “It” girls.
Simon Longland, head of menswear and womenswear, Harrods
Favorite collection(s): Saint Laurent, Loewe, The Row and Valentino.
Best show format: Balenciaga without doubt had the most impressive staging of the season, the huge mud pit was immense and set the perfect stage for the collection. Rick Owens, staged outside the Palais de Tokyo with an unmatched view of the Eiffel Tower and surrounding a huge fountain, was also one to remember.
Top trends: Tailoring was a dominant theme — from formfitting and sculpted to oversize and relaxed, strict clean minimal black to embellished and colorful. Other themes included sleeveless and backless. Truly a season where there is tailoring for everyone and every occasion. We saw lingerie come through as a key trend this season in every guise, and expect it to be a key trend for our clients next season. Cape details as at Valentino, and hoods on slinky evening pieces such as Saint Laurent. In denim, the most popular iteration came in washed and faded wide-legged or long floor-length skirts. Rosettes, both appliquéd and embroidered, as at Acne. Their use of rosettes paired with structured and hard leather pieces was really beautiful and a style that will be surely filtered through next season. Volume continued to take center stage, particularly in big sleeve silhouettes. From Rick Owens and The Row to Cecilie Bahnsen and Zimmermann — there was volume for everyone.
Nathalie Lucas Verdier, general merchandise director, Printemps
Favorite collection(s): Saint Laurent, Loewe and Miu Miu.
Best show format: This season, brands were competing to create a memorable Instagrammable experience. From Saint Laurent’s uber-Parisian setting, Courrèges’ beautiful sand set to Coperni’s moment with Bella and Balenciaga’s mud field, the competition was fierce.
Top trends: The Y2K trend was not as strong as in New York City, London or Milan, where it was prominent, but there still were some strong hero items of this decade: cargos, anything satin, low waists, corsets and ruffles. Elevated denim was ubiquitous this season in all its versions with adornments, fabric mix or special shapes at Courrèges, Miu Miu, Givenchy and Stella McCartney.
Paris was more about sartorialism, sophistication and dressing up. There were luxurious embellishments and refined details, and plays on sleeves (extra-long at Loewe and The Row, side-opened at Sacai).
The post-pandemic party trend is still super strong. Cocktail, party and eveningwear were everywhere and satin is a key material this season. Transparency, lace and glitter were often seen, such as long gowns with trains. And, of course, sexy is definitely back for real: dresses and skirts were either super short or extra long, worn with very high heels.
Must-have item(s): A cargo was seen in many iterations: satin, cropped, denim. Total leather look and especially a biker jacket from Saint Laurent; a delicate cropped Victorian blouse as seen at Loewe or Givenchy.
Budgets up or down: Finally exceeding 2019 results, we are confident and planned increased budgets.
New talent: Ester Manas confirmed she has a strong point of view on inclusivity and delivered a beautiful optimistic collection. Weinsanto and Vaquera brought an edgy air to Paris Fashion Week.
Impressions of the week: Paris was busy and optimistic despite the recession threat. This week was all about sophistication, elegance and the pleasure to go out and celebrate. Maybe it lacked the appeal of newness and reinvention Milan had this season.
Federica Montelli, head of fashion, Rinascente
Favorite collection(s): Saint Laurent, Loewe, Balenciaga, Dries Van Noten, Miu Miu, Valentino, Acne Studios, The Row and Vivienne Westwood.
Best show format: I personally loved Loewe’s hyper-real collection. Jonathan Anderson is one of those designers that keeps pushing the boundaries of creativity on all levels. Balenciaga’s mega-production was once again on point, with a strong “down-to-earth” collection, quite literally.
Top trends: Denim, body-con dresses with a sleek, elongated figure, exposed midriffs and sexy open backs, cutouts and ruching, extra-mini proportions for dresses and skirts and plateau shoes. There was a comeback for leather, in some of the most important shows.
Must-have item(s): Sparkling everything. From tops to encrusted denim, catsuits and scintillating dresses and capes, we have seen a steep rise of the paillettes and Swarovski [crystals], confirming a big momentum for eveningwear.
Budgets up or down: We are experiencing great retail momentum, which gives us a positive outlook for spring 2023 that is translated in our budgets.
New talent: Minuit and Germanier are two young designers who we are watching with interest. We loved Bruno Frisoni’s shoe collection’s second “comeback.”
Impressions of the week: The momentum and the energy of Milan continued in Paris. We have been very active in the showrooms securing new brands and investing in important themes seen on the runway, like eveningwear. Resort wear was the biggest theme at the trade fairs and has been a big focus of our buys, together with novelty on shoes, bags and jewelry where we are working on new retail projects.
Alix Morabito, womenswear and lingerie director, Galeries Lafayette
Favorite collection(s): Saint Laurent, Loewe, Courrèges and Germanier.
Best show format: Coperni’s finale for its technical prowess, and it was also a cultural moment. Balenciaga’s huge mud installation and wet path that gave a feeling of day-to-day, a real-life atmosphere to the clothes. The mud also had a distinctive smell that we couldn’t shake off in the next few days, as though Balenciaga was following us throughout fashion week.
Top trends: This season is even more influenced by Y2K — so many cropped tops, transparency, low-rise, bleached effect and denim-on-denim looks, for example. It seems that a lot of brands are aiming their collections at the young celebrity communities using and replicating their codes. The collections feel quite wintry, with lots of black and leather. We can see emerging a new elegance, which talks more about sensuality than sexiness, slightly more “mature,” with some historical references as seen in the sleek eveningwear of Valentino and Lanvin, and with beautiful dresses in the Balenciaga show.
New talents: Confirming new talents like the very sensual show of Ludovic de Saint Sernin, the ocean-inspired collection of Botter and Germanier’s colorful universe of beads, sequins and bliss. Also interesting designers at Sphere, such as Christopher Rumpf and Ponder.er.
Bosse Myhr, director of womenswear, Selfridges
Favorite collection(s): Undercover, Dries Van Noten, Junya Watanabe and Sacai.
Best show format: Noir by Kei Ninomiya’s show with a breathtaking array of looks.
Top trends: Cropped garments, jackets and a more sophisticated and dressed-up sexy aesthetic is going to be very much present in spring 2023.
Must-have item(s): A Sacai jacket, Undercover slashed sweater and a Coperni dress.
New talent: Weinsanto showed a very exciting show at the beginning of fashion week. We loved the energy, styling and variety of looks.
Libby Page, market director, Net-a-porter
Favorite collection(s): The Row and Loewe.
Top trends: Nineties grunge as seen at the likes of Sacai, Coperni and Courrèges. Spring jackets — there’s been some incredible styles this season, think the puffer at Balenciaga, the moto at Stella McCartney and Loewe showcased some cropped versions, all of which are strong transitional pieces for the spring season.
Must-have item(s): Valentino’s Perspex logo pumps, Loewe’s mini polo dress.
Impressions of the week: We cannot mention Paris Fashion Week without discussing the abundance of celebrities that were present — the power and influence of the muse is showing no signs of slowing down, from Cher at Balmain to Kanye West’s opening Balenciaga.
Roopal Patel, senior vice president and fashion director, Saks Fifth Avenue
Favorite collection(s): Loewe, Saint Laurent, Chanel, Dries Van Noten, Sacai, Valentino and Rick Owens.
Best show format: It has been a week of over-the-top productions that felt set for a Hollywood film. I always look forward to seeing Saint Laurent, and this season’s show had the buzz of a rock concert set against the most chic backdrop in Paris. Demna’s mud pit show for Balenciaga and its message of grounding into the earth has been the talk of the week. Loewe’s show with the anthurium flower as the focal point was just divine. Jonathan Anderson left us wanting more of that exotic surrealism.
Top trends: Skin is in this season with a sultry, barely there approach. Minimalist tailoring continues to be prominent with a strong focus on both boxy and oversize jackets as well as fluid pants and shirting. We are seeing lingerie-inspired details in everything from bustiers to cropped bra tops with a focus on the bust. Leather is back with an ’80s inspiration, seen in biker and cropped jacket styles. Other key trends included sheer fabrics with a peekaboo allure, invisible sequins, shine and crystal bling, exotic floral prints, utility and cargo, denim, evening gowns with cutouts that accent the waist, carryall shopper totes, chain bags, platforms and flatforms.
Best new talent: Ibrahim Kamara for Off-White delivered a moving debut collection in tribute to Virgil Abloh. Ludovic de Saint Sernin celebrated the five-year anniversary of his gender-fluid, cult-favorite line with a ton of buzz. His collection delivered a sexy, cool, luxe lineup for all.
Ida Petersson, buying director, Browns
Favorite collection(s): Loewe. From the waxed jackets to the knitwear and accessories, it was simply divine and Jonathan at his very best.
Top trends: Sharp tailoring, long skirts and coats, leather and denim are key materials, with black most definitely being the key color. Cargo pants and shorts are everywhere, with Y2K influences still going strong at the new-gen brands.
Must-have item(s): The waxed jacket from Loewe, cargo shorts from Givenchy and the teddy bear bag seen at Balenciaga.
Budgets up or down: We’re excited and our buys reflect that; however, we’re also aware of the global economic climate.
New talent: Not quite so new, but Coperni really stole the week. Hodakova also had a beautiful first show in Paris; I’m excited to see where Ellen will take her collection.
Impressions of the week: A tale of half and half. It’s very apparent that all designers are very much influenced by global current events. Some are looking to party their way out of it, but it’s been a long time since there was so much black on the runways for spring.
Arielle Siboni, women’s ready-to-wear fashion director, Bloomingdale’s
Favorite collection(s): Stella McCartney, Valentino, The Row, Lanvin, Saint Laurent, Chloé, Victoria Beckham, Sacai and Rokh.
Top trends: Moto details and leather continue. Minimalist tailoring, trousers (especially low-rise) and utility-inspired pieces dominated shows. Fringe was everywhere, shine and sheer elements continue as part of Y2K, capes and hoods started to emerge, as did lingerie-inspired details and lace. Platforms seemed to be the shoe of choice this season.
Must-have item(s): Several runways featured crochet tops back to trousers. This styling combination feels fresh and I can’t wait to wear it this spring.
New talent: Minuit.
Joseph Tang, fashion director, Holt Renfrew
Favorite collection(s): The Row, Balenciaga, Issey Miyake, Dries Van Noten and Miu Miu.
Best show format: The show installations and setups were on another level this season. The shows from the epic Balenciaga mud pit, Dior’s fantastical grotto display, to the giant fibreglass anthurium at Loewe were all incredible to experience and hope for the season ahead.
Top trends: Precision tailoring continues to be an important trend for the spring season. Deceptive details were everywhere, from raw hems to multifunctional closures. Key brand standouts here were at The Row, Lanvin, Akris and Sacai. Couture-inspired workmanship was inspiring, including ornate embroideries and appliqués from Dior, Valentino, Hermès and Loewe. We are also fascinated by newness in technological fabrications and textiles — even more so with a sustainable edge.
The Y2K trend is here to stay. From sexy crop tops from Alessandra Rich to the low-slung hip-huggers at Stella McCartney — this nostalgic trend is pumped up for spring 2023. The Miu Miu effect is in full force and we especially loved the continuation of the micro mini trend. Denim variations were seen all over the runways with an emphasis on relaxed and oversize silhouettes. Of course, we love a Canadian tuxedo moment, seen best on Gigi Hadid at Givenchy.
Must-have item(s): A rubber Rockstud tote bag from Valentino; reconstructed trench dress from Sacai; the cargo short from Givenchy; Comme des Garçons x Salomon sneaker; the elongated leather shirt dress from Loewe; the precision tailored jackets from The Row.
New talent: Ibrahim Kamara’s new image direction for Off-White was a strong representation for the future of the label. We are excited to explore this new identity.
Impressions of the week: As we end the monthlong fashion journey, Paris delivered the jolt of energy we needed to finish an incredibly strong spring 2023 season. We are invigorated by the global talent of the week.
Liane Wiggins, head of womenswear, Matchesfashion
Favorite collection(s): Loewe, Rick Owens, Junya Watanabe, The Row and Sacai.
Best show format: The Noir Kei Ninomiya show at the Oratoire du Louvre was very special and the multicolor pop seating at Sacai was super uplifting. Zimmermann’s show at the Petit Palais was a grand botanical setting. Issey Miyake paid beautiful tribute to the late designer and the dance element of the show was very memorable and of course, the mud at Balenciaga.
Top trends: Bomber jackets from Sacai, Noir Kei Ninomiya, A.W.A.K.E., Rick Owens; A-line, trapeze and the new jacket sillouettes coming through from the amazing Loewe; Rick Owens’ tulle minidresses and lots of the outerwear we have been seeing.
Khaki, brown and nude tones with a pop of chartreuse. Interesting take on tailoring jackets — tuxedo looks at Victoria Beckham, The Row folded-sleeve jackets and Dries Van Noten’s incredible pleated tailoring. The skirt and shirt combinations from Valentino, Sacai, A.W.A.K.E. and Junya Watanabe.
Must-have item(s): Loewe A-line cropped jacket, Junya Watanabe pleated shirts, Loewe bag.
New talent: We loved many of the clever new collaborations, like the Cecilie Bahnsen new upcycled trainers with Asics that tapped into the trend of skirts and sneakers that we have been seeing this season.
Impressions of the week: Many impressive innovative moments from brands such as Loewe, Sacai and Comme des Garçons — overall seeing a true return to designers creating real, wearable but interesting clothes and inspiring us all with this shift slightly into interesting hardworking, effortless clothes with high style and interest.
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