Subversion and surrealism lay at the heart of men’s Pre-Fall. Youth subcultures, surrealist prints and an anarchic attitude put a fresh spin on core themes surrounding gender-fluidity and the revival of artisanal craftsmanship. Amid the raw and rugged, a sense of playful nostalgia came through as designers looked back to their own heydays and reimagined them for the contemporary man.
Trendstop brings FashionUnited readers an insight into the international menswear collections for Pre-Fall 2022.
Like his womenswear counterpart Maria Grazia Chiuri, Dior’s Kim Jones also looked to subversive youth counterculture. Inspired by Jack Kerouac’s 1957 novel, On the Road and the Beat generation informed the 50s cut tailoring accented with sequinned accessories and paillette-overlaid knits. Contemporary hybridisation came in the form of trench coat/backpack pieces and collaged shirts that nodded to the upcycled headstock trend whilst Kerouac’s cover graphics were revived as a painted print on a rugged motorcycle jacket.
Thom Browne’s seasonal take on subversion came in the form of Surrealist-inspired lobster motifs. Adorning tailored half pleat, half straight skirts in a reconfiguration of the kilt, as well as full length dresses, Browne continued to explore and redefine traditional notions of masculinity. Wallpaper floral intarsia in gentle shades of grey and jade green decorated structured silhouettes, and combined with models wearing false eyelashes, put a softly feminine spin on menswear formals.
For Balmain’s Pre-Fall outing, Kurt Cobain’s journals provided the backdrop for a collection that infused traditional house codes layers with contemporary elements. Classic houndstooth and Breton stripes met oversized outerwear silhouettes, synthetic materials and rebellious stomp boots, using 90’s grunge as the platform for promoting craftsmanship and the celebration of beauty in imperfection.
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