“Exploration and experimentation have long been given high-billing priority in the house of Fiorucci,” explains the label ahead of its Pre-Fall 2021 womenswear collection dubbed “Cosmic Waters.” Revisiting its bold archive, the label has created an eclectic range which plays with color and prints, all with an underlying Y2K inspiration.
Through playful layering and experimental proportions, Fiorucci delivers an exciting and eye-catching collection that perfectly balances the line between sportswear and retro disco, weaving in house signatures like the recognizable cherub logo throughout.
Ahead of the collection reveal, we had the chance to speak to Fiorucci artistic director Evie Reddy, to learn more about the inspirations behind the collection as well as what is next in fashion post-pandemic. Keep reading for our full interview.
How have you managed to stay creative during the pandemic?
As a close-knit team, the pandemic has inspired a strong sense of camaraderie and encouraged us to be more resourceful in the way we think about creating our collections, to how we communicate them. At the beginning of the pandemic, we took a step back and delved deep into what it is that people really want to see from Fiorucci and how we want Fiorucci to make people feel. It came to light that emotion, compassion and positivity was at the forefront of this, and so we really tried to find a sense of optimism outside of physical freedom.
I think we always expect to have everything we need at our fingertips, and suddenly the circumstances change. You have stop ask yourself, how will we make this work? The pandemic is something we have never experienced before, and so we had to experiment with all aspects of what we were doing, and in this way, we had the chance to be more creative than ever.
Personally, delving through the Fiorucci archive was a sense of escapism for myself. The archive is a real treasure trove full of captivating imagery and truly masterful artworks and graphics, created before the time of photoshop and illustrator. There are lots of happy accidents including beautiful but unfinished sketches, and it was these natural renderings that motivated me to experiment and use a new, more forgiving approach to design.
Where did you find inspiration for the collection?
Fiorucci has long represented a less conventional approach to fashion – living and breathing in its own universe. It was a pioneering brand that never took itself too seriously but was and is serious about platforming inclusivity and creativity. What the concept store brought to the streets of New York was a synergy of creatives, an eclectic space that encouraged a less polished version of glamour, and always a progressive and empowered sexiness. That’s the energy that we wanted to capture this season.
Cosmic Waters draws inspiration from Fiorucci’s archive references to wildlife, specifically aquatic life. Now more than ever we’re dreaming out being able to explore the world around us, which is where our dream-like ocean narrative came from. One archival piece in particular really captures this feeling, it is the Frankenstein and Mermaid panini sticker. True to Fiorucci’s humour, It’s unexpected and makes perfect sense simultaneously. I also found huge inspiration in researching coral reef nurseries and deep scuba diving expeditions, leading me to realise that the vast majority of the ocean is unexplored, and the rest of it is left to our own imagination.
As well as this, another huge inspiration came from some of the emerging creatives of the 1970’s who helped shape Fiorucci’s original energy and spirit. The collection draws on these iconic pop art prints, which provoked the gravity of contemporary art and played a pivotal role in generating the iconic energy of Fiorucci’s first decade.
How do you think fashion will change following the pandemic?
The pandemic has encouraged us to adapt the way fashion communicates in scales of brands. Emerging and established, everyones faced reinvention. I think digital presence will remain pivotal and although the industry has shown a tremendous amount of resilience and ingenuity throughout this time, I don’t believe that fashion will revert back to how it was pre-pandemic. Brands have realised the importance of being conscious of the world around them, and how this awareness is essential in keeping their consumers and followers close. People care about the narrative behind what they’re buying into, they want to believe in it and fundamentally they want emotion that is reflective of the world around them.
That said, I believe nothing beats real-life experiences and although we will tread carefully, I think fashion brands and designers, along with the rest of the world, will celebrate the moment when we are able to reunite.
What are you most excited about seeing?
I’m excited to see more partnerships, collaborations and creative support for emerging brands and designers. I hope we’re headed for a boom of creative energy, and that young people are fearless enough to start something new. Personally, I’m really looking forward to seeing the rest of the Fiorucci team and friends person!
What are your favourite pieces from the collection?
I’m really loving the accessories this season, in particular I love the Icon bag which was inspired by an original Fiorucci shopping bag, and is made in sustainable apple leather for the new season. I’m also a huge fan of the heavily printed skin tops and trousers, as I think they are so recognisably Fiorucci, and I can’t wait to see how people style them! The Antonio Lopez pool side print is a favourite of mine as it pays homage to the archive and makes me feel optimistic about sunnier days!